Polaris Water Heater Troubleshooting

Polaris water heaters are popular among households because apart from innovative designs, they are energy-efficient and one of the top brands of its kind. Moreover, they use gas or propane and can be used for residential and commercial applications. They are also durable and produce less sediment. When it comes to possible problems, all Polaris water heaters have an onboard problem indicator that flashes when there are issues with these units.

Having said that, we will discuss some of the common problems you might encounter with your water heater and what you can do about them.

1. Error 2 Code

Your Polaris water heater has a small window located on the access panel just near the bottom of the hot water tank. From this window, you can see the LED indicator which will alert you if there is a problem with your unit. This error code is also referred to as Pressure Switch Open Failure. When this is the case, the Ignition Control Module (ICM) fails to close the pressure switch. Consequently, the air pressure of the incoming fresh air that goes into the unit will not be able to be measured.

If fresh air is not supplied to the unit, the heater will not be able to start a burn cycle. The IGM will attempt to check the air pressure after an hour and normally, the problem will be resolved. If this is the situation, there is no need to troubleshoot.

2. Noise Caused By Sediment Build-Up.

Sounds or noises are normal occurrences in a water heater from the normal expansion and contraction of parts made of metal when the unit is heating up or cooling down. However, sediment can also settle at the bottom of the tank which can result to these noises. If left or ignored, this can lead to premature tank failure.

In order to address this problem, the tank should be drained and flushed. This process is important to be done periodically to remove the build-up, especially if hard water is used. Do this at least every six months for proper maintenance.


  1. For safety, the first step is to turn off the electrical supply that goes to the water heater. Next, at the Manual Gas Shutoff Valve, turn off the gas line that goes to the water heater.
  2. Turn off the cold water inlet valve and go to the nearest hot water faucet and turn it on.
  3. Get a hose and connect a drain on one end. Connect the other end of the hose to the drain valve.
  4. Drain the hot water from the tank by opening the water heater drain valve. Ensure to keep away from the draining water to prevent burn and injury from the hot water.
  5. Remove the sediment by flushing the tank with running water.
  6. When the sediment is removed and draining is done, close the drain valve and refill the tank with water. Check by turning on the water heater as you would normally do.

3. No Green Light.

If there is no green light with the water heater power on, you have to check several areas. First, check the wire connection. The 120 volts should be connected to the black wire while the L1 serves as a ground wire. Next check the 24 VAC on the transformer and if it is defective, replace it with a new one. As for the terminal block, also check the 24 volts. You might need to replace this part if you find it defective. If all these steps have been done and there is still no green light, you might need to replace the blower cover safety switch.

4. Absence Of Yellow Light.

Option 1: First, check the set pot. With a temperature dial set at the coolest setting, also set the ohm meter at x1. Next, remove the orange wires from the t-stat board. The reading should yield 20,000 ohms. Slowly, set the dial to the highest setting. Resistance should drop to zero smoothly from the highest setting. If the reading is incorrect, replace the set pot.

Option 2: If the problem is not fixed, test the black sensor wires by removing the black wires from the t-stat board. Water temperature in tank should match the appropriate reading. If reading does not match, replace the E.C.O. or the sensor.

Option 3: If the yellow wire that is connected to the ground does not match the 24 volts module, replace the yellow wire. Otherwise, you need to replace the thermostat circuit board.

5. Polaris Water Heater Is Leaking.

Step 1: Turn off water supply using channel locks and rotate the shut-off valve on cold water pipe located at the top of the tank or shut off the main water supply.

Step 2: Relieve the pressure inside the tank by opening the tub spout for the hot water for a few seconds. You can also relieve pressure by using the level of the TP valve but be careful of the hot water that will be released, just like with on overheated car radiator.

Step 3: If it is still leaking, turn off the electric or gas and drain the water heater. Use a garden hose for draining. For the electric water heater, do not touch the water heater especially if it is wet. Turn it off from the circuit breaker panel

6. Drain Valve Is Leaking.

Secure a garden hose cap which you can get from the local hardware store. Ensure that a rubber washer comes with it. Use the washer to seal tank.


  • It is important to check the exhaust piping and water piping as well as the combustion air inlet should be inspected every three months for flammable or corrosive materials where the unit is installed, possible leaks or damage to water, gas and vent pipes as well as the presence of obstruction in the vent or combustion pipe.
  • To avoid damage to pipes, refrain from using your water heater unless the tank is full of water and the hot side of the tub is running at full stream.
  • If leak is water bubbling, it might be that the tank is already rustic. In this case, replacement is needed.

Skip to content